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Tales from the Waters Edge
In northern Zululand you will find Africa’s oldest wildlife reserve. In 1894 Paul Kruger proclaimed the Pongola reserve a protected area. It was only the second in the world following Yellowstone National Park. The reserve has seen many turbulent times. The Boer War followed the Zulu War. The ‘golden age of hunting’ came and went decimating animal populations.
High on a Hilltop
It is not often that accommodation options, great value and ‘Africa’s Big 5’
are used in the same sentence. Hilltop Camp has all this and more. The camp sits on the summit of the highest forested hill in the northern section of Hluhluwe Park. It boasts stunning panoramic views and the terrace café is a perfect place to view eagles and vultures.
Lions beyond the Elephant Rock
The light was fading and the last of the sun was putting a final pink tinge to the pale blue sky. The waterhole we had stopped at was surrounded by dry straw coloured grass. On the opposite bank stood a line of thorn trees. The still water reflected the trees like a Victorian mirror. As I sipped my red wine I thought it must be near perfect soft light for a photographer.
Into the Valley
The enchanting zebra, enigmatic Africa and nostalgic safari. All phrases that are associated with, and come to mind, when spending time in South Africa. You maybe would not think of funky Spaza or celebratory Madiba. Indulgent romance though would be an option. These are not just words and phrases with African associations. They are the names of some of the rooms at Lions Valley Lodge.
Sardines Anyone?
The greatest shoal on earth is one of the biggest natural events on the planet. During mid winter off of South Africa’s South Eastern Cape coast around five hundred million sardines congregate and then migrate. This migration see’s them follow the coast all the way to KwaZulu Natal.
A Retreat with a View
From the N3 highway the distant views of the snow topped Drakensberg Mountains are some of the best I have seen. But this is winter, and I had been told this is the best time of year to see the mountain range at its best. My wife’s grandfather’s slides had given me a good idea of what to expect. However the real thing just got better and better.
Drakensberg Day Trips
If you are staying in the Drakensberg or thinking of a day trip there is an abundance of walks & hikes to suit all. If you are planning to stay over there is a huge choice of accommodation. KZN Wildlife manages many reserves with options including fully catered and self catering. Outside of the reserves there are hundreds of lodges, hotels & guest houses.
Safari 2011 Update
It was football to some and soccer to others but whatever you call it the general feeling is that the 2010 ‘World Cup’ was a huge success for South Africa. I even wore a distinctive yellow Bafana-Bafana shirt for a New Years Eve party to mark the passing of 2010!
St Lucia – Tropical Gateway
When the name St Lucia is mentioned outside of South Africa thoughts always seem to go straight to the Caribbean island. However for me, having been a fairly regular visitor to South Africa, I always think of Zululand, the Elephant coast and the iSimangaliso Wetlands Park.
Lake St Lucia – Eastuary Cruise with Hippo & Croc's
No trip to St Lucia is complete without taking a cruise on Lake St Lucia. You are virtually guaranteed to get up close to some of the 1,000 hippos and 2,000 crocodiles that call the lake home.
Cape Vidal, Cape Rain!
With rain varying from drizzle to tropical downpours we headed off to Cape Vidal from St Lucia. It’s a 35km drive on mainly tar but dirt loop roads allow you to explore and see a little more of this section of the iSimangaliso wetland park. There was also a slim chance that by the time we reached our destination the sun would be shining.
Hluhluwe-Imfolozi - Reverse, reverse, reverse!
It has almost become an annual pilgrimage for me. This safari though would be different. Hluhluwe-Imfolozi game reserve yes. But on this trip there was my wife and my parents. I had travelled here with my wife before but it was to be my mum & dads first visit. I saw my role as the guide and like all guides I wanted my party to experience all that the park had to offer.
Safari 2010 Update
All eyes will be on South Africa in June and already the world’s media is reporting on the country in this pre soccer world cup period. If the recent British & Irish Lions rugby and England cricket tours are anything to go by then the soccer will be a huge success.
Phinda - Above & Beyond all Expectations
Africa is the home of the dirt road. And all dirt roads lead somewhere. Not all, in fact very few, and being honest I cannot think of another, will make you go ‘wow’ when you reach the end. Not all dirt roads though lead to Phinda Private Game Reserve.
Sontuli Loop Wild Dogs
When I arrive in South Africa I always pick up a few magazines to read during my stay. Along with Getaway I also picked up a copy of the February edition of Africa Geographic. The first article I read was “Pack Attack”: news and general information on African wild dogs in Mozambique.
Giants Castle - Lammergeier at the Vulture Restaurant
Godfrey Symons, my wife’s late grandfather, pulled over on the farm road to look at a large white bird sitting in a thorn tree. He looked at me and my wife and said “I have never seen that on the farm before”. I did not know what we were looking at or what that sighting would lead to.
Safari 2009 Update
Every visit to South Africa and the province of KZN is special for me. 2009 has been no exception, catching up with family & friends and visiting both new and familiar places. Over the course of three weeks I covered nearly 4000kms over highways, tar roads and dirt roads.
Nambiti - Bush Luxury
My wife, Melanie, has now changed her mind about sleeping in tents. For the first time in a long time she accompanied me on a ‘reserve visit’ all be it rather reluctantly due to the promised tented accommodation. It was the “wow” after “wow” that gave it away as we looked around our canvas sleeping quarters.
Zululand - Great Choice
There are many places in Kwa Zulu Natal that I return to time and time again. In short stays though you simply cannot get to them all so you have to make ‘tough decisions’. Mountains, beach or bush? Where in the mountains? What beach? What bush? So many choices!
Rescued & Hosted
A chance meeting with Gavin, from Zululand Adventures, in Hluhluwe Game Reserve lead to a search for a lioness sitting in a tree. Two hours later, where the lioness should have been I encountered a large bull elephant heavily in musk.
Ithala - Alone by the campfire
I had seen the odd celebrity on TV given the chance to spend a night alone in some remote bush or jungle location. Ray Mears, an expert at it, is famous for his ‘all alone’ TV survival guides. So when I was asked “main camp or bush camp” at the Ithala reception desk I answered “bush camp please.”
Weekend Wilderness
Our Ranger, Jabulani, paused and raised his arm for us to stop walking. He pointed out two large white rhino less than 50 metres straight ahead. We stood in silence under the cover of a large Buffalo Thorn Tree and watched. The rhino stopped feeding and looked straight at us, ears pricked, sniffing the warm air.
Tembe - Elephant Country
North of Zululand, a short distance from Swaziland on the unnaturally straight Mozambique border lies Tembe game reserve. The area, formerly part of Tongaland now called Maputaland, was a key to the ivory route.
Viewing the Biggest Two
If you have never seen an African Elephant at close quarters it is described in my mammal guide book as, 'Loxodonta africana', a huge, heavily built animal with long stout legs, large feet, large flat ears, a trunk and tusks'.
Weenen Game Reserve - Conservation the quiet way
Only two hours Inland from Durban and the Indian Ocean, across The Valley of a Thousand Hills, and into the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands lays a piece of Africa seemingly kept secret to all but a few. Surrounded by distant mountains, blue hills and rolling valleys you will find Weenen Game Reserve.
Bush Paradise
On entering a game reserve I am often overwhelmed with a feeling of great expectation and Ithala, tucked away off the well beaten track in North Central KwaZulu-Natal, is no exception.